12-16 From the Female Side

Well, I figured it’s time for the distaff side to chime in again. We came back to the U.S. for a wonderful Thanksgiving at G and S‘s; 23 people and 5 dogs: all the kids, Bob’s father and brother, P.W.’s in-laws, and G’s in-laws. It was great being back in the States. ‘There’s no place like home.”

I stayed in Atlanta after Bob returned to Dubai and had a wonderful time visiting with friends, Christmas shopping, and going to a very fun Army/Navy game. I can’t believe the coach has left Annapolis for Georgia Tech. Frankly, I don’t know why anyone would give up Annapolis for Atlanta.

I do want to thank each of my good friends who made time in their busy schedules to have lunch or dinner or just “play” with me. I had a wonderful time getting together with everyone and will miss seeing you over the holidays.

I guess I never had a chance to mention before the holidays our very good friends, JR and NR, came to visit on the back end of their around-the-world trip. They stayed with us in our tiny apartment for a week. That’s true friendship! We’re open for any other adventurers! We had a good time playing tourists while they were here. Poor Bob; that was the first week of operations for Safi Airways, so he was kind of burning the candle at both ends. We did the bus tour, which is a very good overview of the city, and stopped at Emirates Mall to take a look at the indoor ski slope. We will try that before we leave. We also made it to the Emirates Golf Club, which is fabulous, and the new ice bar, which serves no alcohol. It’s a fun place to visit once; not like the one K, J, PW &W visited in Hong Kong.

JR and I had a great time in the Indian tailoring area. They have absolutely gorgeous fabrics from India, and we found a very nice tailor to make us some fun, glitzy party clothes, followed by a dhow ride across the creek to the gold souk. It’s fun looking, but there are few deals to be had.

Bob, JR, NR, and I did our night-in-the-desert adventure, which entails four-wheeling on the sand dunes, an ethnic dinner under the stars, belly dancing, henna tattooing, and trying on local dress for photos. The biggest adventure was when our driver for the night was an hour and a half late and tried to make up the lost time on the way to the dunes. During the ride out there we reached speeds of roughly 140 kmh and at one point we were going the wrong direction down the highway. I’ve never been that fast in a car. It made the four-wheeling seem kind of tame.

Life is settling in a little as Safi tries to develop something of a monthly schedule. Obviously, there are a lot of changes, but a pattern is slowly emerging. Bob thought he might be going to Tunisia with a charter group of Arabs to go hunting with their falcons over the Eid holiday, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to happen now. Could have been interesting for him.
They finally had the memorial service for G in a very lovely park along Dubai Creek. It was very nicely done and finally brought some closure to this difficult time for his wife. He was my buddy in Kabul while the crew was pre-flighting and training, and it’s hard to believe that all of a sudden he’s gone.

We also this week found our way to al Mamzar Park, which is a lovely beach park with lots of amenities. It doesn’t compare to Pensacola, but it’s still pretty nice. They have little chalets one can rent for the day, so we might get the pilot group out there for a day of sun and fun over the Christmas time frame.

There isn’t a whole lot of Christmas here, but we are trying to make the most of it. Hopefully we’ll get a little tree for our little apartment, and at least Bob is not flying Christmas. We will be cooking turkey dinner for about a dozen Safi people. Should be enjoyable. After Christmas we would like to take a mini-vacation and enjoy some of the finer areas of Dubai overnight.

That about covers the latest here. We hope you all are enjoying the pleasures of the holidays. It’s amazing how we can miss all the hustle and bustle we complain about from year to year. Next year we’re thinking big on Christmas!

ASD

Early December

To begin on the final note of last week, it is a very sad tale of what expats have to go through when there is a death involved over here. The police have yet to finalize the case, and over here if it is not “solved” then it remains “pending.” And the real item is that if it remains “pending” then it is not added to the statistics! G’s company and the Australian Embassy have been very helpful, but bribes still have to be paid to see the body!

Now back to the slide. The slide was sent down to Abu Dhabi and repaired the next day. However, they then found that when the slide went through the windshield it destroyed the wiring harness for the emergency lights. A wiring harness was found in London and overnighted to Abu Dhabi, but now we have to wait for the contractor to reschedule the completion date. Meanwhile we can fly for a few more days. On a side note, our only strong competitor in Kabul blew their slide departing from Dubai yesterday and is now ground by the UAE authorities…and they were so quick to criticize us last week. I did have to call one of their pilots to see if they “needed any assistance.”

The schedule changes this Monday. We have been flying from Sharjah to Kabul and returning. This Monday we will actually begin flying Sharjah, Dubai, Kabul, Dubai, and returning to Sharjah. Dubai ranks up there with the major airports in Europe such as Paris, Frankfurt, and Amsterdam. And as I have mentioned previously, you can go to the Duty Free Store AFTER arrival, so the “dryness” of the area is lessened.

A should be arriving tonight having finished all the Christmas packages. I must admit, this is the earliest preparation we have ever had for Christmas. In a way I feel back in the military being away for the major holidays, but this is the last time. SMSDiscount and Skype will be working overtime on Christmas Day (provided they are not blocked)!

One of our pilots stepped out of the box Thursday. We have been staying pretty close to the hotel in Kabul or just at the airport when flying. However, we do now have some contacts in Kabul. He was interested in oriental carpets and had the brother of one of the senior members of the airline take him to the rug bazaar. He was surprised at how many rugs (and guns) were there and the prices were extremely reasonable. Remember, there is very little transportation required once the rug is completed to get to Kabul. The real problem lies when we have too much weight at the airport returning to the US. May have to check into shipping items back, but not overnight!

Tragedy

After a great Thanksgiving with family, in-laws, and friends it was time to catch the Saturday flight to Dubai. Just to remind everyone that when you depart on Saturday evening, you don’t actually arrive till Sunday night. No way around losing a full day!

I did mention the Dubai Airshow in the last blog. We have all been to many military airshows that usually last for one to two days, have a formation flying exhibition, and can walk around the airplanes.

However, I certainly was not prepared for my first Commercial Airshow. First off, they took over the entire new Executive Terminal at the Dubai International Airport.

Second, there must have been 150-200 planes of all descriptions that you could enter and get information on. The exception was the US Air Force's AWAC’s and the US Navy's E2 that were there. The Norwegians even had an AWAC aircraft that the dome rises from the middle of the fuselage during flight and retracts for landing! There was a flight team demonstration each hour on the hour from differing countries. The only country not represented was the US. UK, Canada, Jordan, Egypt… It was interesting since I’d never seen some of them, but if you’ve seen the Blue Angels – “that says it all!”

The third difference from military airshows were the vendors. If it is made for or anticipated for any type of aircraft the item was there to be seen. To see the envisioning of the future of all facets of aviation was terrific. We even signed up a British Maintenance firm and a security firm just for Kabul. I will say it wasn’t Blackwater, although they are one of the best.

Safi Airways also had a booth at the Airshow. It was interesting that they had the opening ceremonies already on large poster sheets around the booth. It was strange to see some of the same pictures of myself on four foot by ten foot blow ups. I never realized I was so good looking!

We have been flying a three day/week schedule to Kabul and are about to increase to four. Load factors are much higher than I would have expected to this point. But as everyone knows in aviation, “things happen!”

Yesterday was one of those days. Arriving into the Kabul approach control area we had our runway changed twice after the initial call. This obviously requires computer inputs but most important is keeping real world situational awareness going as it relates to mountains. The rest I’ll leave to your imaginations and for late nights at the lake.

After taxiing to the Kabul Terminal Ramp, the engines shutdown, seeing the stairs being positioned at the front door, I decided I could finish my paperwork before doing the normal PR work with the airport authorities. Just looking for a quiet four to five minutes to get things together! At that point I heard three timid knocks on the door. It was A, one of the mechanics that travels with us. You must understand, he is about 6 foot nine with perfect posture. But here was this mechanic looking at the floor, shoulders bent inward, and almost whispering... “they blew the slide!”

All our flight attendants are new and undergoing training with the flight attendant onboard each flight. However, Purser #1’s hands moved faster than anyone could react to and there it went. The stairs are powered by a truck body similar to the States. They were about ten feet from the side of the aircraft when the slide blew. As all the aviation buffs know, slides have power, so you shouldn’t be surprised to know the slide blew inward the windshield of the truck. Luckily no one was injured!

The slide was bad, but not the worst. I was awoken the next morning at 7:00AM to go to the police station to help pick up a very good friend. She had not gotten home till about 8:00PM the night before to her new condo to find some new furniture had just arrived. She and her husband celebrated till about 1:00AM when she had to go to bed as she had been up for almost twenty four hours. She was awakened by the doorbell at 5:00AM only to find the police and security at the door. They asked for her husband and she looked frantically throughout the condo for him. The police then said he had had an accident and she found out he had fallen off their third floor balcony by the pool. Everyone here is just devastated!

Mid November 2007

The intensity of the work continues. As I mentioned in my last blog, we had a VIP practice flight to Kabul last Sunday. After getting all the flight planning, fueling, overflight clearances, catering, and numbers of people set, we were off to Kabul in force (53).

I flew the left seat on the way up with C as a F/O. We did have some FMS problems on the way up, but nothing that couldn’t be handled. Basically Honeywell forgot to include airways and intersections on their download to our FMS. Who needs airways? At least we had approaches, SIDs and STARS.

There were probably 300-400 people to meet the aircraft on arrival into Kabul and all wanted to tour the aircraft. Unfortunately, we didn’t have extra stairs for the back, so we just had them make a complete circuit from the front door to the back and up the other aisle. The only other thing I can remember was that there were pictures, pictures, and more pictures. I think everyone there wanted a picture with someone in a Safi uniform.

There were numerous vans and private cars to take us to “downtown” to the Safi Hotel. The accommodations were as before, but it is very evident winter is approaching as fountains are covered and the nighttime temperatures drop to around 3 degrees centigrade.

The Safi’s put on a large buffet dinner for the crews, family and friends in the hotel. A & myself were at the head table with the Elder Safi, and his oldest son. A very strong point must be made here that I met about seven sons (two different mothers) and one daughter wearing a burka. Each one of these kids, fifteen to forty, was extremely well mannered and spoke excellent English. They all showed their sense of humor when they invited me to the rooftop to smoke the hubblie-bubblies. It was an honor to be asked, but I decided to pass!

I will have to mention that the car A, I, and K were to take to the airport was ready to leave on time and started backing up to only hear a loud crunch! Obviously WE hit a car coming out of the alley. The armed guards were there immediately for numerous reasons, and they did the talking. Not understanding Afghan, I presume the conversation went somehow “how could you get in the way of a SAFI car?” I think he was “asked” to drive his car away or they would shoot the tires out. Not once did they exchange insurance papers! Godfather comes to mind.

The next day Safi Airways had erected a large tent at the airport for the purpose of having all the VIPs. President Karzi was invited but his VP showed up. The entire tent, three hundred feet walking to it, and about two hundred feet to the aircraft was covered by oriental rugs. There will be pictures sent out and if you want a copy, please leave your email address on the comments section of the blog.

We started flying early the next week on a three-day schedule with a 0500 departure from Sharjah to Kabul, and returning to Sharjah about 1400. The flying is very pleasant and interesting, and daytime VFR only is not too bad.

The approach into Kabul is actually difficult. The Glide Slope is 3.5 degrees starting in the mountains. Even thought we’re sixteen miles or so from the airport, you must have flaps 20 and 160 knots at initial or you will not get down. So far everyone has made it in on their first attempt. I was asked to fly at least two flights with each pilot going in, so flight time is no longer a problem.

The Rs arrived about 2300 on Monday or Tuesday with me leaving for Kabul with a 0300 pickup that morning. We stayed up to talk for a while and then decided I needed to get to bed. I returned back to the apartment around 1430 only to find A and the Rs still in bed. I guess they were making up for the sleep I lost!

The first night we had dinner in Sharjah on a dhow on the water at a Lebanese Restaurant. The food was excellent and very inexpensive. They were even exposed to hummus. Since we had had happy hour while they met all the pilots, we used our best taxi driver, Muhammad. He dropped us off at 2030 and picked us up at 2230. Always on time!

All the touring will probably be covered on A’s blog, but some of the events of this fast week come out of the blur.

One of the first events I can remember is driving with A and the Rs to City Center Mall. Of course someone in the back wanted the air conditioner changed. New thirty-day car had arrived, so I had to look down to change it. And you guessed it, right into the back of a Toyota Camry! Of course I hit an Arab and they “never” have accidents, only expats. We now had two choices. One was to call 999 (same as 911 in the states) or the other was to drive to the police station and report the accident. We both agreed to drive to the police station for the report. Arriving at the police station, we walked in and were assigned an officer IMMEDIATELY. It took him about two minutes to assess the damage. I agreed I hit him and the report was written up in about five minutes. I received a one hundred dirham fine ($27.00) for hitting him from behind and the police time required. I then walked away! Since I had the full insurance from Avis, everything will be taken care of. In Dubai and Sharjah, INSURANCE IS GOOD!

Thursday night in the desert also comes to mind. The ticket price included transportation in an SUV (Land Cruiser) to the desert and back. Once again the traffic was bad, so the driver was late picking us up in Sharjah. We immediately knew why there were seat belts in the car as he reached speeds of up to 160 klicks trying to get back on schedule. If that wasn’t bad enough, we missed a traffic circle turn and headed out the wrong spoke. As all normal drivers would do, he made a U turn on a major highway and drove against and through the traffic to again drive into the intersection and then proceed on course. The only thing I knew is that it would be a quick demise.

Once we reached the desert area, we found we were with approximately ten other SUVs for the Dune riding portion of the tour. We played follow the leader at speeds up to fifty klicks on top of the dunes and almost rolling over (intentionally) numerous times. Very much like a roller coaster!

Dinner and a belly dancer were back at the main camp with the surprising thing—being able to get a rum and coke! The food was excellent for this type of event, which surprised all of us. I will definitely go back again (with a different driver)!

A separate note must be made at this time, “do you know which mother got a tattoo in the desert?”

Another event which comes to mind is the Ice Bar. This is in the Dubai section and this mall is called Times Square. After you pay the admission price, you are given a winter jacket, hood, and boots if you don’t have socks. The interior of the bar is kept at minus three degrees Fahrenheit at all times. The entire forty meters square is made out of ice shipped from Canada for its clarity. All the tables, bars, glasses, and food plates are made of ice. Three of us had hot chocolates and N ordered juice. His juice soon turned to a slushy in the ice glass and room temperature. Good music, so dancing was the preferred warm up method.

Another memorable event was on Friday when I presented N with his Afghanistan Visa and a business class ticket to Kabul for the Saturday rotation. Awakening at 0200 for a 0300 pickup, we noticed a little fog outside. This was the second day in a row so we thought it would burn off quickly.

Arriving at the airport we did find a few items out. The airport closed last night at 2300 and wasn’t expected to open untill later this morning (where was our station manager). We did learn a few things about the airport: (1) it has lost it’s Cat II and III certification due to construction; (2) fueling and catering cannot take place during low visibility operations; (3) we need to start parking over a fuel hydrant. We also learned that N and I were not going to make it to Afghanistan that day as we had to call out a reserve crew. The rest is a story for the lake (whichever). At least he got the Visa.

I will be in Atlanta for Thanksgiving, more on the Dubai Air Show next blog. Happy Thanksgiving!

AFGHANISTAN ADVENTURE

11/9/07, AGHANISTAN ADVENTURE FROM THE FEMALE SIDE: Last Sunday Safi Airways had its inaugural flight to Afghanistan. This was basically supposed to be a fam flight and an opportunity for the crew members to update their visas. However, it turned into quite an extravaganza in Kabul. The operations officer’s wife and I were invited to tag along, as well as about 25 members of the very prolific Safi family. From the pilot side, I will let Bob fill in all the trials and tribulations of making this flight happen, which were numerous.

We started the day by taking a one-and-a-half-hour bus trip across the desert to Fujairah, on the other side of the UAE, where the plane had been parked for the last month. Some of the scenery could have been from the American West. Overall it was pretty desolate until we got close to Fujairah.

Bob was captain for the trip up, which always makes me feel better. He hasn’t lost the magic touch. The entire cabin applauded both when we got in the air and when we safely landed in Kabul.

We flew a route over Iran and Afghanistan. From what I could see from the air, I don’t know why anyone would want to live anywhere we flew over. I’ve never seen such desolate, barren countryside.

Kabul was quite an experience. When we landed and taxied in, there was a huge group there to meet the plane; TV cameras, flags, Imam, and everything. The elder Safi was the first one to greet and congratulate the crew. By the time we left the airport for the hotel, it was too dark to see a lot, but we saw more on the way back to the airport the next day. I don’t think you can get much more third world than Kabul. It’s still a military zone, and we could not leave the hotel. You see tanks, bikes, and all sorts of transportation, mules in the streets; lots of beggars, children and adults.

The hotel is the only “5 star” in Kabul and has a shopping center as part of the structure. That’s a bit of a stretch, but the rooms were fine. Mr. Safi held a big dinner for the crew and VIPs, and then some of the many “Safi kids” invited the pilots to go up on the rooftop to smoke from the sort of hubblee-bubblee pipes. I call it a “peace pipe.” These do not have drugs in them, and I honestly don’t know if they can be used as vehicles for some sort of drugs or not. They’re really neat looking, though.

The next day, upon an adventuresome and, I’m glad to say, safe ride to the airport, there was another big ceremony. They had a very large, colorful tent set up with about 500 chairs. This time the UN, some various country delegates, press, Afghan government officials, lots of Safi family, and crew were present. Since the crew had to be there early to do preflight, I ended up talking to a very nice Australian, an Afghan military officer, and a couple of Afghan Safi execs under a tree at the airport, watching the caterers set up for the reception under the tent while numerous Afghan and UN military officials were “hanging out.“ I never thought I’d be doing anything like that. Hamad Karzi was supposed to be there but was apparently attending that meeting in the north that was bombed. Unfortunately our Afghan is a little weak, so we couldn’t understand a thing anyone said during the ceremony.

The flight back was filled with numerous procedural quirks, as is not surprising in a third-world war zone. Bob had designated someone else to be captain, but it’s a good thing he was in the cockpit monitoring because there were apparently a lot of deviations to the original flight plan.
I will say there was one time I did not feel real safe. Generally when people are ready to transfer from the hotel, they don’t just hang out on the streets. They get in the car/van and go quickly. For some reason, there was a problem, and we ended up being stuck in the van in front of the hotel for about 20 minutes. We noticed a man just sitting in a van across the street watching most of the time we were there, and it made me very uncomfortable. We were very glad to get moving finally.

All in all, it was just a very moving and memorable experience, and I’m very glad I went. I’m also glad I don’t have to stay there. If I’m lucky I will be able to include one or two pictures here. We’ll see what happens.

As a side note, we have had a lot of Internet connection problems lately, so I apologize for the lack of communication.

Alice

Initial Woman's View

11/3/07 FIRST MOM BLOG: So much has happened so quickly, it’s hard to know where to begin. First of all, for all of you asking about the venerable Clifford, the kids have taken over his retirement care. He is now in Raleigh with G., where he celebrated Halloween, and it is my understanding PWDT is picking him up to go to J and M’s this weekend. We are very pleased and grateful they are willing to take him over. It was difficult to say goodbye to him, but I’m betting we’ll see him over the holidays sometime.




Our apartment is in “suburban” Sharjah, which is the next emirate up from Dubai. It’s really like one continuous area. When there’s no traffic, which is almost never, we’re only about 20 minutes away from downtown Dubai and 10 minutes from downtown Sharjah. Sharjah has a beautiful downtown. It’s much more conservative, which means among other things it’s dry, and you see very few westerners here. I was brave and took a taxi into Sharjah to get my nails done today and had a real jerk of an Iranian cab driver who didn’t know where anything was. However, I found a good salon in more or less the high-end area of Sharjah and the day ended well. We had dinner on a dhow, little old boats, on the lake the other night in Sharjah, which was enjoyable.

They have gold and textile and spice souks, bazaars, here that are actually nicer, less crowded, and less expensive than Dubai, but the old souks in Dubai are still something to see.

Dubai, if course, is beautiful. Every building tries to outdo the previous one. They are building the Burj Dubai to be the tallest building in the world, and if someone builds a taller building, they have designed this one so it can be added onto. I did manage to get on one of those city and beach bus tours, which gave me a great overview of the city.

Shopping seems to be the national sport here. There are large malls everywhere, and some of them are absolutely gorgeous. The bad news is traffic on “weekends,“ which are Thursday and Friday, is like Christmas in the U.S. every weekend . We went to the Festival Mall yesterday, which is built on Dubai Creek with a canal running through it. It was kind of like being on Rodeo Drive. Haven’t been to Emirates Mall yet where they have the indoor snow skiing.

As for our apartment, it’s an adjustment. The area is full of construction, and again we are among the very few westerners. It’s not exactly the high-rent district, but it seems to be safe, and the apartment is new. I’m pretty uncomfortable taking a power walk around the neighborhood in shorts, as there are very few women out during the day and none in athletic gear. I’ll get it figured out, though. It’s pretty much a live and let live attitude around here, so I’ve just got to get over being uncomfortable.

The apartment itself is smaller than our first apartment when we got married, so we’re learning to “share” space all over again. It’s nice enough, but I could live without the gas container for the stove, for which you have to match-light the burners and the oven, in the middle of the kitchen. There’s no dishwasher, a tiny sink, and no clothes dryer. Aside from that, it’s great! The clothes dryer is the rack on the balcony.

All of the pilots are here, so the situation very much reminds me of our old Navy days. The apartments may be small, but we do more entertaining now than we’ve done for a long time.

Bob has been working very hard, and I personally think the airline is still looking for its direction, but they all have very handsome new uniforms, and the first flight, which will be a fam flight for all the pilots and flight attendants, is tomorrow to Kabul. I have been invited to join the group, so still more adventure! It should be interesting, and I understand this could be a good place to purchase oriental rugs. I will follow this up with the female impression of Kabul when we get back. Now I have to go pack.

We miss all of our family and friends and look forward to seeing everyone when we get back hopefully sometime over the holidays. I know we will appreciate Marietta, the lake, and the beach much more.

More to follow after Kabul.

Pre-Kabul, Early November

110307 This has been a very busy week! The decision came down from above on Monday approving our practice flight with all the Flight Attendants, Management, and some VIPs going to Kabul. We will spend one night at the Safi Landmark Hotel in Kabul City Center and return to Sharjah the following afternoon.

So of course this meant that everyone was going to “general quarters.” Flying over here is definitely not the same as flying for a major in the United States. From my end it meant getting the overflight permission from Iran, getting Boeing to facilitate our AFMs (Aircraft Flight Manual), flight planning, fuel planning, getting the pilots back into the books, uniforms, and SECURITY!

The original intent was to never have the plane RON in Kabul, but everyone knows plans are always in flux. In Bogota, the plane was always safe with just the security tabs placed on all the openings. In Kabul, anyone who wishes to enter the aircraft after shutdown could just open a door and walk in. Of course that would be preferable to blowing a hole in the side or underneath and walking through it. So, the bottom line is we are still sticking with tabs but also “numerous” armed guards for the entire stay.

Our custom tailored uniforms were to be delivered on the 8th of November, but the powers that be weren’t thinking of that. So, we had to quickly re-schedule our final fit and I believe pay a premium to get them five days early. They actually arrived at 1530 the afternoon prior to the test flight. The fit was actually pretty good. I did require more material than in my Navy days. While I was thinking,” wow, they arrived,” I decided to inventory the suit bags. I was surprised to find the epaulets were missing. After a couple quick calls, it turned out that the Duty Driver had left them in the back of the van and was back in Dubai. Just another trip back to Sharjah for him to deliver them back to my room! The president of the airline wanted us to have silver strips as opposed to the traditional gold, so now we need a belt to match---so many problems!

As I mentioned earlier, we will be taking a few VIPs on the RON to Kabul. One of the VIPs will be A. She received her expedited Afghan Visa on Thursday and is now ready and eager for the next thirty days. She has even started doing research for possible rug purchases in Afghanistan! No time wasted for this woman in this part of the world! One can only guess who she will have carry it for her?

While she has been transitioning to the time zone over here, she has been able to visit Deira City Center Mall, Festival City Mall, Sahara Mall, Safeer Mall, Wafi City Mall, and the Sharjah City Gold Souk. Together we will explore the Emerates Mall for the Rs arriving around the 11th of November. So many malls, so little time.

This will be sent out when we arrive in Kabul and are at the hotel. Next week we will cover the first Safi Trip with Flight Attendants and VIPs. This is the whole reason we’re over here and we do find it exciting!

Over and Back

As some of the loyal readers may have noticed, there was no blog activity last week. I was able to fly back to Marietta on Wednesday night with a 2240 departure out of Dubai. The 15 hour flight arrived into Atlanta on Thursday morning at 0640, just in time for traffic hour!

It was an extremely busy four days beginning with a trip to Pensacola, Florida, for the annual Homeowners Meeting and election. I was able to see lots of friends at the meeting and two nights of events on the property.

We left Sunday morning to return to Atlanta and have dinner with G & S prior to his returning to North Carolina. It really was very nice of him to drive to Atlanta to have dinner since I hadn’t seen him for three months. Good catching up on his career and golf improvement.

Monday night we had dinner with R&E at Giovanni’s in Marietta. It was great to see them again and catch up on their new lake estate. In sparing no expense, R will have a state of the art ice maker in the lower level – can’t wait to try it out! We were able to also see blog readers M&M at the restaurant also. It was nice to finally meet him and see that he was recovering. I didn’t ask if he had replaced the motorcycle yet.

The real purpose of the trip back was to help A get over to Dubai with her recent rotator cuff surgery. The return trip Tuesday night went very well as we were able to sit up front together. Once again, I was able to pay the $100 over weight penalty for her suitcase. It really doesn’t take much to go over the limit of fifty pounds. The fourteen hour flight was uneventful as I slept through most of it.

A has now acclimated to Sharjah and the surrounding areas. Not too sure she enjoys the car rides to get where we’re going, but she does enjoy getting there. She is already branching out from the Souks for the back streets!

More on the flying next week.

End of Ramadan

Last Saturday I flew in the cockpit of a rival company’s 767ER into and out of Kabul to observe the inflight procedures and problems. The aircraft left at 0740 and because it was an international flight, I had to be there at 0540. It was a very early wake up! The trip was excellent in that I could see why the northern route into Kabul was far superior to the southern one due to heavy military flights from one of their airfields. The biggest hurdle of the trip was Ramadan AGAIN! I didn’t eat on the way up and knew I had four and a half hours in the Kabul Airport to get something to eat. The airport only broke the rules enough to get me a Diet Coke!

With all the mountains in the Kabul area, it is a day VFR airport only. Even with the GPS working and programmed perfectly, the mountains can be extremely dangerous. The biggest problem I foresee is the engine failure during takeoff and getting above them. To add to that problem is that the elevation of Kabul is 5800 feet. So much for density altitude helping!

On Sunday night I had dinner with MR from Atlanta. It was really good to catch up on life with him as we really haven’t had a lot of one on one time since his embarking on a career with one of the major corporations. We had dinner at his hotel, the Meridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort, which overlooked both the Palm Jumeirah and the Burj Al Arab. It was a very nice atmosphere on the outside decks with the evening temperature perfect. I was disturbed to hear how low Lake Lanier is. I guess the extra two billion gallons of water released by “mistake” last year is coming back to haunt the Corps of Engineers.

The official announcement was made Wednesday that Ramadan would be over on Friday. I’ve been waiting for that announcement since it all started. I couldn’t wait for the economy to get back to “normal.” However, I then found out at the office that at the end of Ramadan there is an additional two day holiday where the stores still stay closed which is called Eid. So knowing that it would be a very long weekend with cabs very hard to obtain and underground cabs charging double, I rented a car! Driving here is very similar to playing Whirlyball in Atlanta. The rules for driving here are very simple: Tractor trailers trump; Cement trucks are close behind; SUVs are to be respected; after that – all cars are fair game! For the first time in my life I took out as much insurance as I could get on this vehicle. Just let someone else worry about all the dings.

The pilots decided today to give a reception for the flight attendants and management later this month so K, B, and I drove to Ajman today to try to find some bids on this reception. Some of you may be surprised, but the Russian hotel up there gave us a great offer, may even be one we can’t refuse. The hotel is right on the water with two nice pools in addition. It is right next door to the Kempinski Hotel, where I originally wanted to go. Once again, the ONLY place to buy a drink in the UAE is in a hotel!

Before any questions are asked in the comment section, yes the Hole in the Wall was open and I did take advantage of it.

Fujairah

On Saturday morning I had scheduled all the pilots to go to Ras Al Khaimah to have their first look at our aircraft. As I have mentioned previously, the ride takes about an hour and a half. Once you pass through Sharjah and go out the other side of RAK, it is pure desert. As you can see, if the picture makes it, there are wild camels in the area. Had to get a couple pictures to prove to everyone that they are indigenous to the area!



Arriving at the airport and seeing little traffic, I realized that Saturday was a holiday. We were originally going to pick up the last pilots security pass, but certainly not with the office closed. After about forty five minutes discussing the problem with the officials, they agreed to let the pilot pass in my CUSTODY! I told him to stay real close on the ramp. To make a long story short, battery was dead and ramp temperature was 115 degrees, so we didn’t stay on the ramp too long.

J and I had dinner with another airline friend, R, at the Radisson Hotel Dubai Creek on Wednesday night. Very good contact as he also flies into Kabul numerous times per week. Looks like I will be going back to Kabul for one last trip prior to starting service. I plan to go to Kabul this Saturday during a turnaround. This will amount to about 5.5 hours of flight time with a four hour layover. Plane leaves Dubai at 0740.

Thursday I was trying to leave the office about 12:00 to extend the weekend a few more hours when I was asked by L what time I wanted a pickup in the morning to move the aircraft to Fujairah, Oman? Apparently, our parking spot in RAK has been let for a long term contract. Everyone must remain fluid over here as I had given our secretary my passport that morning for another Afghanistan Visa. I had told her and another person, I, to return it to the apartment Thursday afternoon. I was adamant that I wanted the same day visa! Of course I had received the usual “no problem” reply.

Friday morning at 0630 I asked “I” if he had brought my passport from the office. He did go “white” when he realized: he didn’t have it; it was the normal Friday holiday; I needed it to go to Fujairah; and the van had two mechanics ready to go for minor maintenance. To stir the pot some more, the airport closes at 1300 for Ramadan. He was getting very frantic trying to reach anyone on the phone, but no one in their right mind answers the phone at 0700 on a holiday. I finally recommended that he go to Ras Al Khaimah with the mechanics to get them started and get the other Duty Drive moving to get my passport. He then asked what I would do and I said “I’m going back to bed!” I explained to him that “poor planning on his part does not constitute an emergency on my part.”

My passport did arrive at 1100 that morning with a driver to take me to Ras Al Khaimah. My original idea in moving the aircraft was to stay at 5000 feet and fly the water route from Ras Al Khaimah to Fujairah. This would involve flying around the southern point of the Strait of Hormuze (?). As with all my ideas, this would have been a spectacular trip. However, after getting into the idea and reading all the military warnings (US warships, Iranian Navy, UAE restricted areas) I decided to fly over the mountain directly to Fujairah.

The trip itself was uneventful, tower to tower turnover. There is about forty miles separating the two airports but a world apart. On the approach, looking north there were more than sixty of the large oil tankers lined up to receive oil. There is an underground pipeline to the Indian Ocean side so they don’t have to transit the Strait of Hormuze. The other difference is that just about all the other planes were old Russian Cargo Types. There is a lot of flying between here and the former Soviet States to the north. Pictures will be forwarded to


Fujairah, International. Note the tow bar bend for the Russian Aircraft.

End of September

We finished up the five days of simulator training with a check flight. I needed to see how the other pilots were progressing, so after K and myself, I spent the remainder of the day observing simulator periods. Needless to say, this made for a very long day. I was certainly ready to get back to the hotel.

With Ramadan over at 7:30 the entire group went up to the roof top Indian restaurant for the Iftar Buffet. We had been to this restaurant on numerous occasions so were well known by the staff. The reason we were there was an interesting sidelight of Ramadan. As I have mentioned previously, there is NO alcohol served during the month of Ramadan. Not that I would “skirt the rules,” but on previous nights we had been able to order “cold tea” that arrived at the table in a nice silver tea pot with a China cup and saucer. The “cold tea” was actually a way for the steady customers to get a cold beer, under the table so to speak. On this evening not all things were possible in Bahrain as there were under cover police watching in the kitchen and restaurant to ensure Ramadan rules were followed. So back to the room after dinner!

Gulf Air did provide us with first class seats for the returning trip to Dubai. Their service was excellent and the US airlines could learn a good deal from them. In a two hour flight they served a full meal, many juice, water, soft drink runs, and gave everyone a newspaper in the language of your choice. It is really very easy to get used to first class when someone else is paying the tab!

Once again arriving back into Dubai we had to make a Duty Free run before finding our driver S. Everyone purchased their limit of Duty Free but there is really no way to hide it from the driver, who is an Afghan Muslim. So, Ramadan or not, he turns a blind eye to our purchases as he knows who fills up his “rice bowl!”

With the pilots and flight attendants trained at this point, it is now up to the S Brothers to decide when to start and where to go. I think that we will begin operations sometime before the fifteenth of October. Hopefully they will start small so everyone can get some experience working together before getting too exotic. Although the new web site, http://safiairways.aero/, doesn’t seem to indicate a slow start! I would like to point out also that I had nothing to do with the building of the site.

I was very anxious to get back to Dubai this time because I was going to have my first visitor! This SNIL, Simulated Nephew in Law, was JS from Singapore. He was staying at the Arabian Courtyard in Bur Dubai, so we decided to have dinner there. He travels to Dubai numerous times a year on business, so I hope he ends up being the one constant while I’m here. I really did try to get him to the Ice Bar in Dubai to no avail. I had really thought he and his wife K were into this lifestyle. What can I say; he had to go to bed early! There are hackers and non hackers… I’m sure the Rs will go when they get here in November.

As I have mentioned before, it is a moral violation to use Skype on the internet in the UAE. The authorities are not able to keep Skype off the internet but they can BLOCK direct dialing internationally; they can BLOCK the ability to pay your account online; they can BLOCK direct dialing into your account. The only thing they can’t BLOCK is Skype to Skype calls, which are free.

So the commercial for this blog is about SMSDiscount.com. All the pilots have joined it as of yesterday. We took them up on their offer of 120 days of free international calling and then one to two cents per minute on the international calls after that. I was able to call GHD on SMSDiscount and the reception was excellent. We’ll see how long it takes for the UAE to find out about this. The real problem here is that both of these firms take away business from Etisalat, which is a UAE communications company. For those of you that may be going overseas, one must stay a step ahead of these guys.

Bahrain

Saturday morning K and I went to the Dubai airport for our flight to Bahrain for ground and simulator training. The other pilots had gone up the day before while we were flying the aircraft to Ras Al Khaimah.

There were some interesting facets to the Gulf Airways Dangerous Goods program that are not covered by US carriers. One good example is falcons. This may appear to just be an Air Force bird to you, but over here they are taken very seriously. Their initial price may be ten to fifteen thousand and go up from there. Be that has it may, you may take your falcon onboard the aircraft with you provided: (1) it is in coach; (2) it is hooded; (3) it must be chained to the seat and a pedestal is provided. However, if the passenger owning the bird sits in first class, the bird will have its pedestal in first class also (VVIP). Apparently about ninety five percent of the flacons that fly in the aircraft are in first class. One Gulf Air Training Captain said it was very interesting to watch the falcon on the pedestal because during takeoff it naturally leans forward and then backwards during landing.

Another example is the ceremonial dagger that an Arab always carries while wearing their long white robes. They are presented to the check-in counter and will be placed in a very nice padded box to be given back at their destination. First Class (VVIP) daggers sometimes are authorized in the cockpit! So much for US security!

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that we have been here during Ramadan. I’m really not sure of the significance of this lunar month, but it over takes everything. Muslims fast from sun up to sun down. So what this means in this liberal religious bastion is that no restaurants can serve food to anyone during this time, no alcohol can be served anywhere during the month, and you cannot have anything to drink (water, juice etc) during the day. If you are seen in pubic with a cookie or cracker, fines can be received. Muslims are not allowed to work during sunrise to sunset, so very hard to find ANYTHING open or to tour around (no taxis). Everyday is Sunday when we had our Blue Laws.

On initial check-in at the hotel I found a nice oriental rug in the room. It was about twenty four by forty two inches in a royal blue basic color. I soon realized that this was not a great bathmat, it was the prayer rug. I guess the Guidens Society are not very big over here!

The Gulf Air Training Facility did provide us with a private room, with a guard, for us to have coffee, tea, and our hand carried lunches from our flight kits. The glass door and windows to this room were covered over with paper so no one could look in and see us eating and drinking! So, we’ll be out of here next Tuesday and we’ll see how Sharjah celebrates. Always something!

CHINA

090807 It looks like China is getting very close! The authorization for the Business Class tickets went to the Travel Agent (Safi) today and we’ll get them Monday. Since the plane is purchased from China Air, we must fly them rather than Emirates Airways. Will be packing and planning for the trip till then.

Right now the plan is to take the Monday night flight which departs at 2300 arriving into Beijing at 1100 the next day. Beijing is four hours ahead of Dubai, so this will be a total of twelve hours ahead of Atlanta. What this all means is that I’m now half a world away!

We had received directions to the Hotel written in Chinese so the taxi driver would know where to take us. These directions proved invaluable; as we could use them anywhere we went and knew any taxi driver could get us “home.” The Hotel had very large apartments and was in a very nice part of town, at least for ExPats.

K and I got our signals crossed on when we would take our combat naps, so ended up at the Silk Market at different times. This is the market where most people have their custom tailored suits made which requires the first meeting to pick out the material needed, type of suit or sport coat, buttons etc. Twenty fours hours later is the second meeting where your clothes are fine tuned to your exact measurements. Then once again after twenty fours hours your clothes are ready. I was able to get two suits, one sport coat, and four shirts for the price I was going to pay last Christmas for the same sport coat. So, in that regard, it was a successful trip.

Now about the Silk Market! What a place to walk into. The only way I can describe the Silk Market is to call it a “zoo.” The first two floors must be very good “knock offs.” The prices that they are selling name brands for is unbelievable! There are two to three floors of small cubicles selling clothing for all age groups. The people running these booths put the American car dealers to shame when it come to aggressive selling.

My first night there I made the mistake of stopping to look at some Tommy Bahama knock offs. The young sales girl took the shirt off a hangar and handed it to me. Stupidly taking the shirt in my hand, I was “fair game.” With the shirt in my hand, she had the opportunity to grab my Cross Pen out of my pocket to “look at.” All of a sudden the pen is in her friend’s hands and we’re playing “Monkey in the Middle,” and guess who the monkey is? Once I obtained my pen back, I knew I had to stay focused on ordering my suits.

I think the rules I learned from these first three floors were: don’t touch anything, don’t shake hands (you can be pulled into the shops), don’t answer where you’re from (they then know which currency to convert to), offer your first price at 25% of what they want and try to stay below the 50% level and you will win, stay focused on why you’re there. Other than these rules, just go and have a great time!

Now we need to talk about the upper floors. This is where the good stuff is. The jewelry, jade, pearls, and stones appear to be very good. Like the Gold Souk, a lot of weighing goes on to determine prices. Artistry does change the price. They do have real luggage (Samsonite) for very good prices but again negotiating comes into play.

I had arranged to have dinner with SB in China on the first night. It turns out he lives very close to the hotel so we decided to have dinner at a German restaurant in the Lufthansa Center. I do understand that you don’t go to Beijing for German food, but this was very good. It was very nice to be able to sit outside and have adult refreshment. The only problem outside is that the Chinese are able to put the people of Los Angeles to shame with all their smog. Those that are able to see my pictures will see that on the ramp of Beijing airport visibility is only about half a mile during the day do to this smog. It must be all the bicycles over here!

The real reason I was in Beijing was to pick up the 767 for Safi Airways and take it to Ras Al Khaimah, UAE. Tuesday morning Air China picked up K and I as well as two others that have been “getting the plane ready for flight.” These two also happen to work for Safi Airways. One of the individuals was named J, who is an Afghan and is the brother of our President. The second is an Italian named M who happens to be “a maintenance professional.”

Our two Safi employees begin to explain how to get the security passes at the Air China/Lufthansa Maintenance Facility and Chinese Military. It sounds so easy when I put the initial conversation on computer, but as some of you know, nothing is easy with the Chinese!

Arriving at the front gate at the Maintenance Facility, we went into the security office. The initial pass didn’t take too long but the agent there wanted to keep our passports, which we would need to get our ramp permits. It took a few calls to our Air China Customer Service Agent to have him explain in Chinese that we were not required to give the passports to her. She succumbed to the pressure and we had our passports back in hand.

We then went to the Safi Office within Air China and gathered up numerous items that J and M would need at the aircraft. K and I had our flight kits that we would need to check out the various systems to accomplish our mission. Our Customer Service Agent, Paul, was then to take K and I to the main terminal for our ramp permits. Nobody said it was five miles away! In the main terminal it was pictures, passports, and lots of questions.

Arriving back at security point number one, we now proceeded to security point number two. At security point number two, the military scanned our bags, had us go through a magnetometer, and inspected the Air China truck we had. They also stamped our security permit, which also meant that when we left the ramp, we couldn’t go back unless we went back to the main terminal and purchased another pass! The bureaucracy didn’t stop there. As we approached OUR aircraft and unloaded the truck, I noticed an armed Private (or whatever) approaching. The Air China Customer Agent told us he really “owns” the aircraft at that point and we couldn’t touch it till a mechanic was there.

We called for a mechanic and of course there is another wait. When the mechanic arrived, there was a formal signing ceremony at which time the mechanic “owned” the aircraft and was responsible for all of us on OUR aircraft! All of this could possible even put the Russians to shame!

During our inspection we did find a couple items that needed fixing and made a list up for Air China. We also checked the FMS (navigation) extensively and ordered updated software. As it was now approaching 5:00PM, we had to get ready to go because we would have to have another signing ceremony and get back to the office because the entire plant closes then.

Wednesday was a very busy day. Our president wanted the aircraft washed, the Italian ordered a fourteen day check, Air China had to finish the requested items, final money had to be transferred, the 8 hour and ten minute flight plan had to be filed, catering had to be ordered, and most of all we needed 50,000# of additional fuel. Again I mention that K & I had also to get to the tailors to pick up our clothes. So, needless to say, this day will turn into one of those “lake stories!”

Private and Corporate jets must leave Beijing before 6:00AM, which required a very early pickup. I had planned on a 5:00AM takeoff to give myself some slack. After an excessive amount of taxiing, we did have a 5:10 takeoff. The flight was on its way toward the Gobi Desert, Himalayas, and then to the desert again. If you are not familiar with those items, we followed the northern Chinese border, west to Pakistan, down the Pakistan border with Afghanistan, over Iran to Bandar Abass, over the Straights of Hormuze (?) to Ras Al Khaimah.

The trip itself was uneventful but had extremely beautiful scenery. Not only was the Gobi interesting, but the Himalayas had a MOCA of somewhere around 32,000 feet. We were only cruising at 38,000 feet, so it was very interesting to be about 8000 feet above the ground. I will put more out on this trip to the aviation types later.

The arrival and landing at Ras Al Khaimah was as all the Navy friends would expect. The old touch is still there and I was “back in the saddle again!”

The joy of the moment was only tempered by the thought that I had to be in Bahrain the next morning.

Have a good week!

The Gold Souk

090307 I will start this blog out with immediately relating that I’m not in Beijing! More to follow!

When I arrived in Dubai early last month, one of the first things I was told was about the basic honesty of all the people. To help “back up this honesty,” the police are extremely strict as they are in Singapore. From what I’ve seen, everyone seems to listen intently to the police when they would like your attention. Now that it has been said…

There is a law in the UAE that basically states that a new company may have up to ninety days to decide in which Emirate they are working. Safi’s ninety days ended last Sunday. The problem being, we live in Sharjah and work in Dubai – two different Emirates. Knowing that the authorities well knew of this problem and that it had to be resolved, we were told not to come to work on Monday. I still had to get some paperwork from the office so I went in to retrieve it. After loading up the paperwork and memory stick with the driver, I decided to send those items back to Sharjah and go sight seeing on my own.

The driver took me along Dubai Creek on my way to the Gold Souk (Market). The ride over past the small (80 foot) boats that delivered the dry goods to dockside was very interesting. This is probably the way it has been done for a thousand years, all manual labor. These boats are tied up three to four abreast with rough walkways across each for carrying “the cargo.” I will try to get pictures of these in the future. We drove past a large bus terminal and taxi stand as we turned into the Gold Souk.

There was only an hour and a half available for me at this point because the Gold Souk, as well as all other Souks, closes daily from 1:00 to 4:00 for prayer and reflection. The Gold Souk itself is very similar to the market in Moscow, Ismaliva (?). It is a combination of probably five hundred+ independent vendors but all specializing in GOLD! There is also jewelry such as pearls, diamonds (RS take note), rubies etc. The upscale stores have some very interesting and unique jewelry. There are obviously Arab vendors, but there are also very strong contingents from India, Thailand, Columbia, and South Africa. The sky appears to be the limit on what you can spend here.

Interesting aspect here is that there don’t appear to be prices for the gold items. Everything gets weighted and the price is set by the daily price of gold in London. There appears to be negotiating room with hand made items such as rings, where workmanship comes into play. Then the fun begins, if you have plenty of time.

After the Souk closed at 1:00, I decided to walk along the outside and see some of the other shops in the area. As I was picking up the “flavor” of the place, I received a call from one of the pilots. After immediately solving his earth shaking problem, I placed my cell phone back in the holster J had given me. As I continued walking into smaller and smaller areas, I decided to make sure the button on my wallet pocket was buttoned as more and more people were around me.

A short time later I reached for the holster with my cell phone to make another call and nothing was there! There was a moment of panic, a quick look around, a quick look down, and no cell phone. Everyone’s back was toward me walking away in all directions. My thoughts went back to my initial briefings here about the honesty here and I quickly decided “so much for that philosophy!” I then had to make myself feel good by telling myself that the guy that stole my cell phone had to be really good to get MY CELL PHONE! I also fooled that guy because I still had my wallet, and no one could get that from ME.

Now I’m a little depressed because someone has gotten to me. I’m ready to be back in my apartment NOW. Get me out of here! I was able to easily find the cab stand I saw on arrival at the Gold Souk. As I arrived at the first cab in line, I realized that not one of the twenty five cabs had drivers. Prayer time gets me again, as they won’t be driving again till 4:00. As I look across the street, there is the bus terminal. Do I or don’t I and where do I go?

I decided to go to Terminal One of the Dubai Airport. It was half way between Sharjah and my present position and right on the way. Anyway, the bus cost forty cents US, and with the cab added, I ended up back at the apartment spending $4.20 US. I was beginning to show “the system” that I could at least do something correctly, and I was feeling better!

Returning to the apartment a number of people informed me they had tried to call me but some Arab answered the phone. All thought they had wrong numbers. Then the light comes on, I’ll call and tell him what I think of him.

To wind this up, I did call and he only spoke Arab. I called our IT Manager, S, and asked him to call my cell phone and find out if it was stolen. S did call and the individual told him he found the cell phone on the sidewalk and didn’t know where to send it or which of the many numbers to call. S got his address and the next day one of our drivers took me over to pick it up. The finder would not take a tip, was extremely nice, with everything being translated by the driver. Nothing like eating a little crow, so I take back everything I’ve already written about stolen items.

Thursday two pilots and I were driven to the Chinese Consulate to get our visas. It is located in Bur Dubai which took us about an hour and a half in prime traffic. The ride was actually very interesting in that it passed all the famous buildings you have seen in tourist magazines and such. Architects are having a field day over here with unlimited resources which are then transformed into buildings that would even impress Frank Lloyd Wright! Of course this all ended up by passing the Bur Dubai building, which is the tallest building in the world. The Bur Dubai’s top is constructed so if another building is built that is taller, another ten or twenty stories can be built on top.

We each purchased two Chinese Visas. One is the normal Tourist Visa that will get us into China, with the second being the Crew Visa that will allow us to pick up the plane and fly it out of China. Needless to say, these visas were very expensive as they were in the neighborhood of $800 US for a one day turnaround. However, with visas in hand we are scheduled in Business Class aboard China Air bound for Beijing Sunday. Then the fun begins.

Will have more on China later, so have a good week and keep your cell phones close!

Labor Day weekend

083107 Last Saturday at the end of the day we had a lot of commotion in the office. I was working at my computer and sensed that there was more activity than normal. I looked up and saw an elderly gentleman in a very well pressed Arab outfit and about three others with him. Looking outside I could see a very expensive set of three cars. He came over to me, shook hands, and just said “nice job!” I replied “thank you!”

I immediately got I’s attention and asked who he was and was told he was the elder S. He was the father of the two sons who run the airline. Very impressive! More on this for quiet nights on the lake.

We started calling the pilots over this week. It is really a very simple procedure to make a reservation, get a ticket, and get on an airplane in the states. However, when one has to deal with the owner’s travel agency, Safitesx, it does get quite dicey. I made up a very simple list of the pilots, their home airports, and the day I wanted them to leave. F, the Safitesx representative, received the list four days before the first pilot was to depart. The day before the first pilot was to depart; I had the secretary call to see the schedule and was informed he was waiting to find a “good deal!” Needless to say, he waited too long for this “good deal.” After he confirmed the flight, he didn't leave the pilot enough time to get to the airport. So much for working together!

It seems that my whole week was dealing with F and his mistakes. He cost Safitesx a great deal of money, not sure he will be around long.

We have been waiting quite a while for the Chinese Crew Visas. All things may be possible in Afghanistan, but certainly not with China and the Chinese. One would believe the Chinese would want the plane off the ramp, but not enough to send a “letter of invitation” to us for the local consulate to issue the visa. So, just like in the military, we wait and wait and wait! Then I’m sure it will be a rush evolution. Anyone who has picked up a plane out of rework knows that it really isn’t ready just because someone says it is. Since I will have two other pilots with me going to China, I had to change the Bahrain training till later in September. I’m willing to give the Chinese two weeks leeway and then training starts.

By the end of the week, all but one of the pilots had arrived. I had everyone to my apartment on Friday night and it seem to go very well, even for a dry Emirate. Keep in mind I only said the Emirate was dry (not the apartment)! I did find it very interesting after all their fourteen and fifteen hours flights, every one of them, like me, said they had slept on the aircraft and felt very good. They felt the time change at night about 0200 and not being able to sleep till about 0700. The old “rule of thumb” of one day/hour of time change still applies. I guess it is just like the rule of thumb (right PF).

We’ll end this blog up with the hope that the next one will be from Beijing, China.

Last Week of August

082507 What an extremely busy week! Since publishing the blog last Saturday, Sunday morning J & I left for Kabul. We flew up on Ariana Airlines, which was the original National Airline instituted by Pan American. I had been told traffic was heavy and it was a 100% load factor flight. I can see why Safi Airways wants a piece of the action.
Not knowing what to quite expect except that “a driver would meet us at the airport!” I knew that we had hired a “station manager (named D)” for Kabul, but this turned out to be an understatement. This guy puts Ricardo in Acapulco to shame. He took our passports, telling us there is no point in US standing inline, and went directly to the immigration supervisor. The passports were stamped IMMEDIATELY and returned to us! That was just the beginning!

Our driver had a NEW (no dents, shinny) Ford Explorer. We had a leisurely ride to the Safi Landmark Hotel and City Center Mall. Passing all the major embassies enroute, I was surprised to see how close the US and Iranian embassies were. Each embassy had reinforced walls around their compounds, concertina wire above, and numerous armed guards at strategic spots.

The Safi Landmark Hotel is the only five star hotel in Kabul. It is classified as a UN Security Cleared Hotel, which appears to mean that it has barriers around the hotel so cars/trucks cannot ram their way in. Rooms have limited windows to keep “people from looking in.” There are guards at every entrance as well as metal detectors.

After we arrived in the lobby, it was very evident phone calls had been made. The General Manager, who is Indian, came quickly out to meet us and only had us sign our room cards. Seeing all that D was doing for us and the way he was treated, we knew he was more than a “station manager.” In effect, he works directly for Mr. Safi, and handles all the financial matters relating to all business matters in Kabul. Of course before starting business, we had to have an “Afghanistan” big meal again.

We then walked one block to the new Safi Airways Building. What a shock! This building is build, and equipped for a 100 plane fleet. Nothing like thinking big! If you don’t receive the pictures, contact Alice. What a beautiful building, inside and out. I think D has been working overtime.

The roof of the hotel is divided into two different restaurants. One is a cocktail area with tents and the other is half a level higher and you get a panoramic 360 degree view of the city. Naturally, I took the 360 degree view. There is no alcohol served but the waiter did catch J pouring into his glass, but that was quickly resolved with the supervisor changing waiters. Alice was correct in insisting that I take a sweater to Dubai. I took it to Kabul where the temperature dropped to 60 degrees on the roof.

The next day we had scheduled meetings with the President of Civil Aviation & Tourism, the Technical & Operational Depute Minister, and the US FAA Representative. All meetings went extremely well, lasting for quite a while. The FAA Representative was a good introduction to the ISAF Forces and procedures. I believe he was a little surprised at how fast we were getting things done in Afghanistan.

Speaking of getting things done, did I mention the new Safi Office building at the airport? Pictures are also included. D has purchased so much NEW airport ground equipment, that it can’t be all stored at the airport right now. When flights commence, the rest of the equipment will be brought in from behind the hotel.

D showed us another building we own that we let the Kam Airways Pilots use for their turnarounds. After getting to know them, and they are from Bolivia, they asked me if I would like to ride their jumpseat back. Let me think…
They also fly 767s, so it was great to watch their mountain procedures in action. Great also arriving into Dubai.

A direct quote from D: “in Afghanistan, all things are possible.” And after seeing what he has accomplished, it must be the quote of the week to be remembered!

Getting back into Dubai, we started calling the pilots over for their training in Bahrain and the commencement of flight ops. I will be leaving shortly for Beijing to pick up the aircraft and hope it doesn’t turn into much of a hassle.

Middle of August

081107 Although this was a back to work day, I had enough computer items to do that I stayed in the apartment for the quiet. Another big reason to stay here was the cable man was coming today to realign the dish for European reception. Knowing how other foreign cities operate, I gave this realignment about a 40% chance.

Around noon, the phone calls started coming. First from S, saying the cable man was delayed, expect him around 2:00-3:00PM. Around 4:30PM he called to say he was delayed in traffic and would be there ASAP! At 7:15PM I received a knock on the door. Upon opening, there was the cable man, his assistant, and our Duty Driver L and all the paraphernalia. The tool belt, the cable wire cutter, the set of ratchet wrenches, and most of all --- the DISH! At this point I knew I was home free. Tonight I would have Fox News, BBC Worldwide, or possibly even CNN.

My first point of losing faith in these guys came when they went to the dish farm on the roof and left the new dish in the living room. I tried to explain they would need to replace the dish on the roof to which I received the proverbial “No Problem!” Of course about 9:45PM they returned from the roof to tell me they had to put the dish on the patio. Why? Because they didn’t bring enough cable to hang it from the roof above the fourteenth floor, down the side, drill a hole through cinder block walls, to the TV on the fourth floor!

Being the calm collected guy that I am, I explained that this is a brand new building. The cable already reaches to the roof from the living room wall to the CURRENT dish. About an hour later they agreed that the wall connection must go to the roof and they would go back to the roof. Anyway, at 11:45PM they returned and said they would be back tomorrow.


081207 It’s only 10:00PM on Sunday and I’m still waiting with my 150 channels of Arab/Muslim music. I wonder if there really is a world beyond Dubai? When low and behold, there’s the cable guy again! This time he has brought 200 feet of cable to drop it over the side of the building. At 11:58PM after getting the cable on the patio and into the living room he realizes he doesn’t have the correct cable box (modem). “No problem,” I’ll return Monday night.

081307 Meanwhile back in the office we are now set up for twelve days in Bahrain and the Gulf Airways Simulators and Ground Training Program. Not only do I think it is a good program, but it will be a way for all the pilots to get to know each other on both the personal and professional basis. Again for those of you from the aviation community, since we are paying big bucks for this training, I have selected only daylight hours for the simulator and I’m not talking about daylight/VFR inside!

081407 It now looks like John and I will be flying to Kabul next Sunday or Monday for two to three days. We already have meetings set up with the Administrator of the Kabul Airport, US Air Force (wonder why they have priority for takeoffs), and other unnamed individuals. This will be my first venture into the world of Safi as they own the only five star hotel in Kabul. The hotel’s name is Safi-Landmark.

If you put the word Kabul into your internet explorer, you will get a number of choices. If you then click on the Wickipedia line, you get all the information you ever wanted about Kabul. It is actually a very good article. The hotel is attached to the largest mall in Afghanistan and is pictured in the article. Who knows, maybe there is a good rug dealer there.

081507 In case you are wondering, I’ve heard as much from the cable man in the last three days as you have! After a deep breath, I tried a new approach by hiring a new company. They now tell me my appointment is Saturday at 9:00AM. It is pretty gutsy for them in this part of the world giving more than just the day. We’ll see!

The Kabul trip on Sunday still looks good for two to three days. We’ll be flying in on our biggest competition, Ariana Airlines. We’ll give the cockpit a shot and see if they accept a jump seat rider. The Kabul story will be for next week.

081607 For those of you that have the Dubai Explorer book, page 391 would apply. But for those that don’t, this is interesting. The apartment is in Sharjah, the most conservative of all the Emirates. For this topic, conservative simply means--- NO BOOZE of any kind. So let’s just say someone’s booze supply has evaporated in the desert air and more would be required, WHAT WOULD HE DO? There are a couple of “approved underground,” “Holes in the Wall.” The catch is they cannot advertise, which means they have no phones, no addresses, no pictures of the place, and must be hidden behind walls. We (C, J, and I) went to dinner at the informal Kempinski Hotel sports bar and then on to Ras Al Khaimah to find the “Hole in the Wall.” Luckily, they had been here before because there is no way I would have driven in there on my own. It was like a drug deal going bad in the French Connection! T’s amazing how guilty one can feel buying a bottle of wine!

I did get one picture taken and was immediately informed by the armed guards that it was not a good idea! Like always, I was glad to get their advice and took I it with a grin . Maybe they were not as fluent as some; it was just that they spoke with authority holding machine guns in their hands. Also, it appears no women are allowed. No Pinot Grigio for A. Just another rich cultural experience!

Second Week of August

080707 I arrived at 9:00AM for my planned meeting with Captain V Lakshman Reddy, expat head of the Gulf Air 767 Simulators. Very competent individual who flew with Air India prior to being pulled into the training realm. From my past experience, this is a small operation with two A320 sims, one A340 sim, as well as one 767 sim. However, as the saying goes, it is the ONLY sim in town. The next closest 767 sim would be London or Frankfurt requiring too much transit.

For those of you from the aviation community, the interesting thing to remember setting up the program is that Afghanistan really hasn’t set up their controlling authority, so we are really autonomous. What we set up may well turn out to be their model. For GT and BW, like setting up the initial P3C budgets. To make us acceptable to the EU and others we will have to be very close to their model.

I was able to complete everything in one day but will be staying one more night in Bahrain leaving early in the morning. I didn’t mention the Bahrain airport previously, but after Dubai it is similar to Muscle Sholes, Alabama. It is a fifties stile airport that is functional but will never be a hub. The one restaurant that stood out was Chile’s! When I was leaving customs, I was not surprised at having to pay five Dinars for a visa, but that the rate is $3.00/Dinar. Very few places in the world require more dollars than their basic unit.

I was scheduled to leave Bahrain at 7:15 in the morning, so I checked in the required two hours early. I again checked through security before getting to the check-in counter. At 7:00AM the realization hit me that there was not a plane at the gate and people were leaving. Checking the gate assignment monitor, I realized the gate was changed. Changing gates and I notice the departure time has changed to 9:30AM. Again, people were leaving close to 9:00AM with another gate change and time pushed back to 12:30PM. All these changes and not one announcement! We actually pushed back from the gate at 1:30 arriving back into Dubai with the time change at 5:00PM. Gulf Air is not high on my list!

Returning to the office I was informed the aircraft was ready to be picked up in Beijing and that it was also insured. Our hold up now is the Boeing Manuals and we can’t get them till the title transfers…everything has its own time. Anyway we’re now completing the flight planning from Beijing to Dubai. I believe this will happen before the end of August. We will be calling the other pilots over very soon and it will be nice to have more company.

Before Beijing, John and I will be traveling to Kabul to set up the operation and procedures up there. This should not be hard since we’re also building a new terminal at the airport! Because the US Air Force has such a presence in Afghanistan, it is interesting to note one of the procedures for departure is to have the wheel wells pressure washed to prevent the spread of Hof and Mouth disease. Just another bird bath!

080907 So far, I really haven’t mentioned the working environment and schedules. The office is downtown Dubai by the clock tower. The working hours are 10:00AM to 6:00PM, Saturday through Thursday. That’s right folks, six days and Thursday is really Friday night. The office is really as diverse as diverse can get. Very nice folks, and their rundown would be:
R -- Afghan about 35, owner with his brother, quiet but absorbs a lot. No problems making a decision quickly and efficiently.
S -- Afghan, former Captain for Ariana Airlines, longtime friend of owner’s family. Handles most of the business end of flying as well as the pilots and flight attendants. Old school and keeps the operation on some type of timetable. Wants the plane here ASAP.
J -- American who handles hiring all the pilots and the initial training in MIA. Former Pan Am and operated foreign airlines for them.
L -- From the Philippines. Flew and administrated Cathy Pacific flight attendants for twenty years. Started out with thirty six F/As but now down to thirty five due to a problem! She and her husband (Australian) have been here for almost three years and are in their second condo here. Sold the first one for a profit already M! Very competent individual.
S -- Indian who runs the office as the administrative assistant. She is a very effective YNCS! Most important is that she handles electronic banking for ME!
C -- Italian who is in charge of catering and logistics. He is a very likable guy who lives in the same apartment with his wife and two kids. He’s actually the one who has gotten me thinking about renting a car. It is amazing how cheap cars are to buy here with no taxes! He is from Northern Italy (Milan) about 37.
I -- Afghan that handles the public relations and communication. Young guy about 28 who I believe is looking to the long term. Good ideas on reservations and the impending sales push. He also lives in the apartment building and rides in in the morning. Faster than a type A!
K -- UAE dispatcher. He has walked me through all the computerization for the weights and balance and it is far ahead of anything I have used in the past! Interestingly if the mainframe goes down, there is another computer onboard that can be used. Nothing like backups!
Sa -- Arab from Dubai that is the IT king for the office. He is very well trained on most of the computers and software currently available. He just gets things done! We will be leaving at the end of this month for new offices (900 meters square) at the airport and he is in charge of the office and wiring. He is really trying to make them economical because when the new International Wing is finished next July we will be moving into our permanent offices (3500 meters square) there.
Im -- Not sure, just know he’s Muslim. He is the office gofer and that is the only way to put it. He constantly wants to get me water, coke light (diet for you Americans), tea, or food. When I’m in the office he sits about ten feet from me and his two eyes are just waiting and watching to do something. As bad as I am, I had to roll a pencil off my desk just to see how fast he could pick it up…bad, bad, bad!

OK, now you know the lineup. They are all really polite qualified people starting a new airline. One thing that is really different from Delta is seeing the same people everyday and getting to know them. Yes I do know size makes a difference!

Since I arrived last Friday night, tomorrow will be my first day off. My plan is to sleep late, go swimming at a local park C recommended, and (don’t be surprised) go to the grocery store. Since I’m back in the apartment with no internet right now, it may be a while before this all gets sent out.

081107 I enjoyed my wake up call from the Ts lake house and speaking to everyone. I noticed that I spoke to everyone except K who is usually a lightweight staying awake with the troops. It is easy to see my leadership skills were missed by the wine opened late.

My day off turned out not to be as I expected. I had planned to get a taxi and go to the beach which is about fifteen minutes away. As it so happens, everyone in Dubai is off on Friday and Saturday and uses taxis. Very, very , very difficult to get a cab at all, much less that distance.

So as flexible as I am, I decided to go to the Mall and Super Market instead. Same taxi problem! Using the old Moscow trick of standing with you arm at 45 degrees, I was able to commandeer a private taxi. Unlike Moscow, these are usually twice the going taxi rate---but they are there and ready!

I had the private taxi driver take me to the Sahara Mall. Very large mall, even by US standards. It is three levels with the lower level mostly a very large Super Market call Spinny’s. The middle and half of the upper level are all the international stores you can think of. The remainder half of the upper level is covered by a “tent roof” and houses the restaurants.

Starting with the stores, I was able to find two pillows which I sorely needed. Continuing to Spinny’s, when buying milk and milk products here one does have to remember that camels make milk also! The final event at the mall was dinner.

I don’t normally do it when I travel, but I went to an American franchise---Chile’s. G would be proud of me. The first thing that struck me was it appeared bigger than American Chile’s that I am accustomed to. The second thing was a much larger staff and always immediate service. The third was the segregation. Women in birkas were in the back right area, women with birkas and children were in the back left area, those in European dress were grouped together, and finally traditionally dressed Arab men were in another section. The food was good and the experience better. However one must remember that Sharjah is dry, so nothing alcoholic was served. The waiter did do a double take when I asked.

Early August 2007

Blog for Thursday Departure, August 2.

Today was the day that we’ve been planning on as the beginning of the new adventure. Since the plane didn’t leave Atlanta till 9:00PM, it did make for a leisurely packing and preparing evolution. It was nice to hear from all the kids and friends who called to wish me well. It certainly does give one the ability to move forward with the support of so many.
My wife drove me to the airport and even went inside to the gate to say a final farewell…a true act of love! The flight planning and departure will be great planning tools for her and her departure. We did learn a few items checking in: (1) The international limit on bags is TWO, each bag over is $100.00; (2) The weight limit on each bag is 50# and ANYTHING over that limit is charged an additional $25.00, if you are close and want to take the time balancing is always an option; (3) carry-on limit is 40# (but no one checks).
The flight was scheduled for fourteen hours. Since it was so late in the day and knowing that I would be served dinner I abstained from food after lunch. Boarding with two Business Class seats, I spread out and enjoyed a glass of Champaign. Pushback and takeoff were uneventful. I didn’t think the menus in Business were as good as they have been in the past, but I was full after dinner and two glasses of wine. By the way---Hot Fudge sundaes are BACK! My final drink about 11:30PM on the 2nd was a glass of water and an Ambien.
With my new Bose headsets keeping everything quiet on the aircraft I awoke and saw that the plane would land in two and a half hours! I had just lost all my professional and reading time! It certainly makes a trip go fast through.

Beginning of August (3rd) Arrival into Dubai:

Descent, approach, and landing into Dubai were uneventful. Long taxi into the gate, but Business was first to deplane. It was 103 degrees on the outside and a cool 76 on the inside. The jetways and ramps remind me very much of all the glass at Munich. It is a super clean airport with all signs in English. After clearing immigration, where no Visa is required, I immediately went to the Duty Free Store where you can bring items (Rum + Wine) into Dubai for a reduced rate. Even found that I could use my airline ID for an additional 10% off. I then found my baggage and headed for customs. With nothing to declare, my bags went through another scanner and I was on my way.

After leaving the customs area and out into the real world, I immediately saw a large sign for “Captain Bob Davis.” My driver from Safi took my bags and off to the limo. Like most large airports, it took more time leaving the parking lot than actually getting to my apartment.

I met my new boss, John Bigelow, at the apartment. He had nicely turned my a/c on and charged my new cellphone…so I am in business. I’ll send the new numbers for the apartment and cell when I know them myself. Now they just ring!

The apartment is very nice! The furniture is brand new, IKEA 2007 modern furniture, fully furnished kitchen, and best of all--- one and a half baths. This definitely makes visitors welcome and comfortable. Plenty of sleeping space and hopefully pictures will be placed into this blog. Tomorrow is another day!

080407 Somewhere the 3rd turned into the 4th. Since John is now sick, the Driver didn’t pick me up till 12:00 and I showed up at the Safi Offices on my own. Everyone was very nice and went out of their respective ways to make me feel at home. I spent all my time with Captain Saleem (EVP of Safi) discussing what I would be doing and how the airline is progressing. He then called one of the owners of Safi and the three of us then went for a welcoming lunch. Seven courses is a little heavy for 2:00 in the afternoon, but I was able to survive!

I felt much like LWP in that I didn’t quite know what was arriving but thought I should at least try to be polite. What I can remember at this point is starting with two types of olives, various types of humus (garlic and olives, tomato and onion), various salad fixings to be put together, spring rolls, cheese bread but really rolls, sautéed meat inside egg plant, flat bread, and I finally was able to choose the mixed kabobs (chicken, lamb, and beef). It turned out to be a great meal and I’m still full eight hours later!

After lunch I was given my plane ticket to Bahrain leaving next Monday at 4:45PM arriving at 5:45PM. The majority of that hour will be spent taxiing. I will be visiting the Gulf Air Simulator complex and getting the training program set up for the other pilots arriving in about two weeks. More will be forthcoming on this subject after the fact.

As things always turnout differently than expected, high speed internet is not yet available in the building. I’m told it should only be about three weeks (bets?). So until then, email will be slow.

I was able to get out and walk around the area to get my bearings. This is really a high rise bedroom community for Dubai that should overtake Dubai population wise in four years. Not too much here except for three grocery stores and two laundries. Without traffic, it is about a ten minute ride to work, with… I did have the driver stop at a super market for supplies on the way back and even saw there was a Chile’s Restaurant! As everyone had expected, there was no ham in the store! Very clean and efficient operation though.


080507 Today started off very slow. The driver had a residency problem to be handled immediately so he couldn’t pick me up till 11:30. It actually turned out for the better because John felt well enough to go over the items that I should cover in Bahrain. Found out the manual for the aircraft may be delayed by Boeing and may not arrive for ten days. Can’t have everyone else here unless we get those.

The weather did rise to 110 degrees during the afternoon. At least it was 78 degrees in the office. On another topic, the aircraft in China had the final registration numbers painted on and will be ready for pickup in the next ten to fifteen days.

I did leave work at 6:00PM today and it only took about 30 minutes to get back to the apartment, with traffic a least moving. I'm still a little tired from the trip over so just laying low for the time being. Tomorrow will be a long day after work and the trip to Bahrain. I understand the hotel I’m in has high speed internet (right!). If that is true, there will probably be a mass download of all the items from the last week.

080607 I continued to have a little problem sleeping last night after four hours. Woke up about 2:30AM so I decided to pack for the trip to Bahrain and continued reading till about 4:30AM. Decided to try to go back to sleep and the next thing I remember is John calling at 9:00AM to discuss the trip. I was out like a light, so the transition must be complete!

Latif, our duty drive, took me to the airport at 1:45PM. The trip only takes about 10 minutes, but I was leery of traffic. Turns out it only took 12 minutes.

The flight process at Dubai is very interesting. To get to the check-in counter you must go through security. Check-in with Gulf Air was very quick and efficient. From there you must go through security again to get to immigration. At no time were small liquids checked or tooth paste, which I had all left back in the apartment knowing I would lose them. I did notice a couple people go through, get beeped, and then just waved through.

The Dubai airport is HUGH! When the new terminal, which can handle approximately 12 A380s side by side, it will have about a four to five mile walk from end to end. In the middle of this security zone is a dynamic city within a city. If I can attach a picture I will. I’m still amazed that everything in Dubai is going UP, UP, UP! Emirates Airlines will be the “Pan Am” for the next generation. Of course, that means many jobs for the Americans and English. My Gulf Air flight today had two Brits flying.

I’m staying at the Movenpick tonight and really enjoying a good meal, good air-conditioning, and great TV. In Sharjah we only get 140 channels of Arab
music and news.

Tomorrow starts the training set-up, so more will follow.

And it's been announced..We're going to Dubai

It's official...we're moving to Dubai. After weeks of tests, physicals and video game testing, I signed on to help build Safi Airlines. Stay tuned for more info at the end of the month...